Smart Mirror DIY Guide
- Purchase Canakit Raspberry Pi 2 Starter Kit
- Purchase Apple I pad USB Power Adapter
- Purchase Samsung Power cord with 2 port plug such as model e3-qspm-db8g
- Now you need a monitor or small smart TV for the display. I used an old Asus computer monitor. The only thing that is a necessity is that all the plugs have to be on the bottom or side instead of the back.
Part 1: The Monitor
- Start taking the case off the screen itself. I had to remove the stand and then the frame simply peeled away with the help of a flat head screwdriver.
- Be careful not to damage the screen, control panel, or the monitor.
Part 2: The Frame
- Measure the bezel of the screen to determine how much to take out of your frame. I routed 3 sides at 1/2″ and one at 5/8”.
- Now measure the length of the sides of the screen and add at least double the width of your frame stick. I cut mine to 29 and 20 to start off.
- You are ready to make your frame now. Be sure to wear eye protection, dust mask and hearing protection.
- Cut your frame sticks to the rough size. Again mine is 29″ and 20″.
- Time to route out the frame sticks for your bezel. Set the bit depth and how much material you need to take out. Again 3 sticks for my monitor need ½” routed out and one at 5/8”.
- With the bezel facing the miter box, cut a 45 degree angle close to the end on the right.
- Take the stick to your monitor and put the inside point of your 45 degree angle to the inside corner of the screen.
- Roughly mark where the second 45 Degree needs to be.
- Set your stop and slowly cut until your mark disappears. You want the frame to be snug around the monitor.
- Make sure to record your finished measurements because you will need it to construct your back build. Now glue the opposing sides together. I used Framerica Cornerweld along with 2 clamps for each corner. Wait a few hours, it will be safe to move however don’t put any unnecessary pressure on the corner.
Part 3: Gluing and The Backbuild
- After each opposing side is glued use clamps to put them together.
- Let this sit overnight to ensure a nice bond.
- Next clean the bottom with a blade to get any excess glue off.
- Now you can test fit your frame to the monitor. There should be little to no movement for the frame.
- Measure the inside of the frame so you can cut and place your vanity vision magic mirror.
- Cut and sand the glass so its safe to handle.
- Test fit your vanity vision magic mirror.
- After the mirror is in, I placed my monitor in the frame. I noticed I had to reposition the control panel so I could nicely mount it. I did so by carefully disconnecting it, re-running the wire through a hole, and re-connecting it.
- While the monitor is in the frame you can measure how high your back build needs to be. I cut mine to 2 1/8”
- Cut your back build sticks to the sizes you did for your frame.
- On a table saw cut the back build stick to your measurement. Make a 45 degree cut on one end. Cut the back build length to 3/16” under the finished length of your frame stick. IE: my frame stick was 26 5/8 and my back build was 26 17/32.
- Before gluing I routed a channel for heat and sound to escape on one of the ends.
- On the bottom short side I routed a small hole for the cords to go to the wall outlet. Paint the back edge of the frame so when the back build is place you get a clean look.
- At the top where the channel is I stuck this white plastic tube to the frame so if you look through the channel you cant see metal components. Now we need to belt or secure the monitor to the frame.
- I decided to use Z-bar because I knew the monitor would be secure and it has a clean appearance. I cut 5 pieces approximately 4” in length. File the ends of the bar so it is safe to handle.
- Most z-bars or french cleats come with holes pre drilled but mine did not. I drilled holes about an inch apart.
- With small screws, strategically place and secure the bar down.
- I fastened the control strip down with gorilla tape so it’s secure and out of the way in case I need it.
- Time to glue the back build on.
- I installed corner brackets to help bring the corner together.
- Now that the back build end with the cable is on I can secure the speakers using VHB double sided tape. After about an hour you can safely move the smart mirror to be able to glue the other half of the back build. Then let it cure overnight.
- Now to fix the cords and plug everything in using cable clamps and tape.
- Take your USB power adapter and remove the duck connection, plug the Samsung cord in it’s place. This will give you a powered USB port direct. I secured the two with electrical tape. The reason for this is so later on I can splice the monitor’s power cord and the Samsung power cord together so that only 1 power cord is needed for the whole smart mirror.
- Strategically place the rest of your cords and the Raspberry Pi computer so that all parts are accessible and clean looking. Now it’s time for you to plug in the supplied flash drive with built in wifi and OS to power it all on.
- I will discuss hanging methods after programming is set.